A concrete deck in London, Ontario lives a tough life. Freeze-thaw cycles, salt spray from winter maintenance, summer scorch, spring puddles that linger at the shade line. The slab keeps taking it. If yours looks tired, blotchy, and checked with hairline cracks, you’re not doomed to a jackhammer. Resurfacing can buy you another decade or more, improve traction, and give your outdoor space some personality without the chaos and cost of a full rebuild.
I work on residential decks and patios all over London and the surrounding counties, and I’ve seen the full ride: bare gray slabs baked smooth, painted decks peeling like a bad sunburn, stamped overlays that still look smart fifteen years later. If you’re weighing options, this guide walks through what works in our climate, what doesn’t, and how to think about budget, prep, and finish choices from a contractor’s point of view.
Start with the slab you have
Resurfacing only succeeds if the underlying concrete is structurally sound. You can disguise cosmetic issues, not structural failure. Before you fall in love with a brochure photo, take a hard look at the deck.
Freeze-thaw damage shows up as pop-outs, pitting, and scaling. Light scaling is fixable with a polymer-modified overlay. Deep scaling that exposes aggregate across most of the surface often needs more than cosmetics. If your slab has settled more than 12 millimetres from one side to the other, or the structure moves when you bounce, call in an inspection before you talk finish. A hydrovac excavation portfolio looks great on a contractor’s website, but it won’t save a slab that’s sinking on fill.
Hairline cracks under 1 millimetre wide are normal in older concrete. They can be bridged with flexible crack fillers and buried under a topping. Map cracking from finishing too wet is uglier but still manageable. Structural cracks that open and close with the seasons, especially those wider than a toonie edge, suggest movement. You can stitch and resurface them, but plan for visible ghosting if you go with thin coatings.
Water is the common denominator. Stand on the deck after a rain. If you see birdbaths deeper than 5 millimetres, note their size and location. A good resurfacing plan will skim the low spots or tweak slope to shed water. In London’s winters, trapped water equals ice. Ice equals slips and spalling. Decks that drain live longer, just like concrete driveways that don’t pond at the apron.
Surface prep makes or breaks it
I have never seen a resurfacing failure that wasn’t a prep problem. Paints and stains peel because the installer skipped mechanical profiling. Overlays debond because laitance and sealer were left in the pores. When a homeowner calls me about concrete services in Canada and asks why their last coating didn’t last, I ask what they did with the grinder. Silence is common.
Here’s what proper prep looks like in practice. You start by stripping any sealer or paint with a solvent or eco-stripper compatible with concrete. Then you mechanically profile the surface. In our shop, that means a 10-inch planetary grinder with 16 to 30 grit metals for old sealers, followed by a pass at 60 to 80 grit to set the bonding profile. You want an ICRI CSP of 2 to 4 for most polymer overlays, sometimes up to 5 for thicker repairs. That scale isn’t marketing fluff. It’s a way of saying the surface should feel like medium-grit sandpaper, not a polished countertop.
Cracks get routed with a V-groove to clean concrete, then filled with a flexible, two-part polyurea or epoxy formulated for cold climates. If the slab has spalls, you cut the edges square, undercut slightly, and fill with a polymer-modified repair mortar. Clean out the dust with a vacuum, not a broom, then wipe with denatured alcohol if the product requires it. Most new coatings want a primer that matches the chemistry of the topping. Pay attention to manufacturer temperatures. London spring mornings still drop near freezing, which can stall cure times and ruin adhesion. If the label says minimum 10 degrees Celsius for 24 hours, believe it.
If you’ve seen a concrete driveway portfolio with glassy finishes, remember those often sit on new pours. Your deck is not new. Prep is the great equalizer between old and fresh, and it is where the bulk of labor goes in any quote from local concrete experts.
The main resurfacing options, translated
Concrete decks have more finish choices than most homeowners expect. The right choice depends on how you use the space, your appetite for maintenance, and whether you like a quiet, architectural look or something with pattern and texture. Let’s break down the options I recommend in London’s climate, with costs and trade-offs in plain terms.
Microtoppings for a modern look. These are thin coats of cement, often polymer-modified, squeegeed at 1 to 3 millimetres. Think smooth or lightly textured, matte, sometimes with a burnished trowel effect. They can go monochrome or carry subtle mottling. Price in our market typically lands between 8 and 14 dollars per square foot, depending on prep and detailing. Pros: clean aesthetic, hides minor blemishes, easy to add non-slip grit. Cons: thin by design, so telegraphing of deeper cracks is possible; requires resealing every couple of years.
Spray-down texture for slip resistance. A staple on pool decks and high-traffic patios, spray-down finishes use a hopper gun to broadcast a thin overlay, then knock it down for that orange-peel texture. They stay cooler https://privatebin.net/?26054dad2ee46b9b#G5oepApPWDPXLfMV1dG3gGWfkLSKMoZB4QT9YihUtb4r under bare feet and grip well in winter. Expect 9 to 15 dollars per square foot. Pros: forgiving on uneven surfaces, great traction, many colour options. Cons: not as sleek as a trowelled microtopping; pattern can feel dated if overdone.
Stamped overlays for the natural-stone crowd. Stamped overlays give you the flagstone or wood-plank look without the cost and upheaval of a tear-out. We place 6 to 12 millimetres of polymer-modified topping, colour it, and imprint with textured mats. It is more craft than product. Budget 16 to 28 dollars per square foot for good work, more with borders or custom inlays. Pros: deep texture hides imperfections, high curb appeal, adds perceived value much like decorative concrete examples you see in high-end patios in London Ontairo. Cons: deeper texture means more sealing maintenance, and snow shovels catch edges if you’re not careful.
Self-levelling toppings to fix ponding. When a deck holds water, a cementitious self-leveller can reset grade over short spans. These products flow to set within a narrow tolerance, then get stained or coated. Pricing varies widely, 12 to 25 dollars per square foot, because thickness drives material cost. Pros: solves drainage and flatness together; creates a clean slate. Cons: can raise thresholds or create step issues; needs careful edge detailing; not ideal outdoors unless the product is rated for freeze-thaw.
High-performance coatings like polyaspartic or urethane. These are thin-film systems, usually clear or tinted, sometimes flake-broadcast for grip. A good choice for covered decks or where chemical resistance matters, like barbecue zones. Costs sit around 6 to 12 dollars per square foot. Pros: fast return to service, durable, easy to clean. Cons: slippery when wet unless you add broadcast grit; not forgiving of surface defects; UV stability varies by product.
You might see epoxy pitched for exteriors. I use epoxy only as a primer or crack repair on outdoor decks, not as the final wear layer. In sun and temperature swings, most epoxies chalk or yellow. Polyurethanes and polyaspartics hold colour better.
Colour, texture, and the art of not slipping
Style matters, but so does traction. A deck that looks like a Tuscan piazza and skates like a hockey rink will not get used in January. On open decks exposed to snow, I add anti-slip grit in the sealer or topcoat, usually aluminum oxide or polymer beads sized to give bite without feeling like sandpaper. The more gloss you chase, the slicker the surface gets when wet. Satin and matte sealers make better partners for London winters.
When clients want the warmth of wood without the splinters, a stamped wood-plank overlay looks convincing if the installer uses real cedar boards to imprint grain and staggers joints with a carpenter’s eye. Colour takes patience. We layer integral colour in the base and then broadcast antiquing releases and stains to create depth, not a single flat tone. You don’t need to mimic every knot. A touch of restraint reads more timeless.
For modernists, a single-tone microtopping in charcoal or buff, with a broomed or sand-finish texture, complements black steel railings and composite privacy screens. Pairing the deck tone with the residential driveway London Ontario homeowners often refresh at the same time can make the front and back of the property feel cohesive. That doesn’t mean perfectly matching shades. Choosing related hues and repeating a border detail, say a 150 millimetre band in a darker colour at the edge, ties spaces together without feeling contrived.
Weather windows and curing in London’s climate
Spring invites impatience. We get that phone call every April, the one that starts with “the snow’s finally gone, can you resurface next week?” Cold nights can still dip below 5 degrees Celsius, and that turns cure schedules into guesswork. A polymer overlay that needs 24 hours at 10 degrees might sit gummy for two days if a cold front blows in. It is better to schedule major resurfacing from mid-May through early October. You can stretch those edges with tents and heaters, but that adds cost and risk.
Summer has its own trick. Direct sun on a dark overlay will spike surface temperatures. A deck reading 35 degrees in the air can hit 55 degrees at the surface by mid-afternoon. Material flashes fast. You adjust by starting early, working shaded zones first, and using slower-set mixes. Shade patterns matter. I’ve watched a perfect spray-down texture go patchy when the sun line crept across mid-pass. Good crews plan their sequence to keep a wet edge and avoid mixing products across sun and shade.
Rain is the constant threat. Most overlays tolerate light moisture in the base concrete, but active rain on fresh material ruins finish and texture. Keep an eye on radar. A contractor who shrugs at a 60 percent chance should also explain how they’ll tent, divert water, and pull it all back down without touching the finish.
Care and feeding after the revamp
Once resurfaced, your deck will look new. It will not stay that way by magic. Maintenance is light but consistent. Sweep grit so it doesn’t grind the sealer. Wash with a neutral cleaner, not bleach or harsh degreasers. Expect to reseal every two to three years, sooner for high-traffic or sun-heavy exposures. Resealing is a half-day job for a pro on a typical 300 to 500 square-foot deck, and it costs a fraction of the original resurfacing.
Avoid de-icing salts on decorative overlays. If you must treat ice, use sand for traction, or a pet-safe, calcium-based product at minimum. The same advice applies to concrete driveways London homeowners often resurface in tandem. Salt is a quiet killer. It draws water, amplifies freeze-thaw, and stains coatings. Store the bag on a mat, not on the deck.
Chair legs and grill casters need felt pads or rubber caps. I’ve seen a beautiful trowel-finish microtopping etched by a rust footprint from a steel planter that sat through a wet spring. A $10 riser solves that problem.
Resurfacing versus replacement: the math and the mess
I get asked whether it is smarter to rip out and pour new. Sometimes yes. If your slab is sinking, heaving at the step, or shot through with deep spalling, replacement might be the only honest path. New concrete, installed by residential concrete contractors who understand base prep and proper air entrainment, gives you a structural reset. Expect 18 to 26 dollars per square foot for a plain broom finish in our region, more with custom concrete finishes like exposed aggregate or integral borders.
Resurfacing usually lands between half and three-quarters of the cost of replacement for the same square footage, with far less disruption. You keep the surrounding landscaping intact. The work takes days, not weeks. For a typical 400 square-foot deck, resurfacing might run 4,000 to 9,000 dollars depending on system and detail. Replacement might hit 7,500 to 12,000 dollars with demolition, removal, base, and the pour. Decorative work levels the field. A stamped overlay might be equal to or slightly less than a fresh stamped pour, but it still avoids excavation.
If you’re already planning other improvements, like new backyard pathways London Ontario homeowners add to connect a deck to a shed or garden, there’s leverage in bundling. Contractors sharpen pencils when they can keep a crew on site and sequence tasks efficiently. Ask to see completed concrete projects Canada wide if a company claims broad experience. Also ask for a concrete driveway portfolio and a deck portfolio, not just one or the other. The detailing differs.
Where resurfacing shines on decks specifically
Decks present different challenges than patios. Railing posts, ledger boards, step nosings, and door thresholds call for surgical work. On wood-framed decks with a concrete topping slab, check that the assembly drains and that flashing is intact before any overlay. Trapping moisture in a sandwich equals rot. On slab-on-grade decks, look at how it ties to the house. We want a slight separation at the foundation, a clean caulk joint, and no bridging that can wick water.
I’m fond of 150 millimetre border bands around deck edges. They cleanly resolve imperfections at the form line, give a crisp termination at steps, and let you change direction or texture for traction on the stair. For example, a smooth trowel finish on the main surface pairs with a broomed band at the edge and at each tread. Small moves like this elevate the feeling of custom concrete work without tacking on thousands.
Lighting complicates repairs. If you have integrated step lights or post lamps, plan the overlay thickness so you don’t bury fixtures or create trip edges. We dry fit everything and notch where needed before mixing a single bucket.
How to pick the right contractor
There are plenty of concrete services in Canada that pour, fewer that specialize in deck overlays. You want someone who speaks in substrates and profiles, not just colours and patterns. Look for references on projects that lived at least three winters. Ask to see photos a year and three years after install. You’re not just after glam shots on day one.
When you search for concrete contractors near me, pay attention to how they discuss prep. A bid that skips grinders and promises miracles with a “bonding primer” will cost you twice. Interview your finalists. A capable installer will talk about microclimates on your property, slope to drains, and how they will mask and protect the adjacent siding. They will bring sample boards that show grit size and sheen. They will ask how you use the deck throughout the year, not just what colour you like.
If you need broader commercial work, like resurfacing at multi-unit properties or retail entries, look for commercial concrete solutions experience. Decks teach you about detail. Commercial jobs teach you about durability and scheduling. The best crews blend both.
Timing, logistics, and living through the work
A typical deck resurfacing in London takes three to five working days, with weather pauses possible. Day one is prep and crack repair. Day two may be priming and base, or the main overlay if prep happens quickly. Day three adds colour, texture, or a second lift. Day four is sealer. Day five is contingency for weather or cure.
You’ll need to keep foot traffic off the deck during application and early cure. Pets included. Plan a grill holiday or roll it down to the lawn. Most systems allow light foot traffic within 24 hours, furniture after 48 to 72 hours. If we’re doing a high-solids urethane, the nose will tell you it’s fresh for a day. Ventilation helps. We tape and drape railings, doors, and any stonework. Dust control matters. Grinders with vacuums, not clouds.
We coordinate with other trades when possible. If you’re installing new railings, we ask the metalworker to leave posts long and drill after the overlay, not before, to avoid cutting our finish. If you plan to stain the fence, do it before we seal, not after, so splatter cleans off more easily. Integration beats sequence mishaps. Think of your deck as part of a system that includes patios London Ontairo homeowners often update at the same time, along with steps, landings, and walkways.
Budget talk without the fog
Quotes vary because decks vary. Materials make up maybe a third of cost on thin overlays, more on thick self-levellers. Labour and prep drive the rest. Edging, borders, stencilled insets, or complex colour systems add hours. If you get three quotes and one is half the others, ask what they cut. If it’s prep, walk away. If it’s insurance or WSIB, sprint away.
Deposits are normal, often 10 to 30 percent to book the slot and order materials. Progress payments align with milestones, not calendar days. Don’t be shy about asking for a written scope that names the system brand, number of coats, and the sealer type. Vague language like “premium coating” invites misunderstandings. A trustworthy Canada concrete company will spell out the spec. It’s good for both sides.
And yes, you can request concrete estimate numbers for alternate options in the same quote. I often build three versions: a base microtopping with grit, a spray-down texture with a border, and a stamped overlay at the higher end. It helps you see where the money goes.
A few before-and-after stories
A bungalow in Old South had a 1970s concrete deck outside the back slider, 22 square metres, crazed with hairline cracks and stained from a dozen summers of planters. The pitch was fine, but the surface looked tired. We profiled to CSP 3, stitched the widest crack with carbon staples, and laid a two-lift microtopping in a warm gray. A darker 150 millimetre border tied into new aluminum railings. The homeowner called me the next winter to say she’d used the deck more in December than in the previous five years because the texture stayed grippy with just a broom pass after snow.
In Byron, a newer home had a poured slab that trapped water at the corner near the downspout. The owners wanted the wood-plank look without the maintenance of cedar. We used a self-leveller to lose a 7 millimetre birdbath over a 1.2 metre patch, then stamped a plank overlay in a walnut tone with a charcoal wash. They later added backyard pathways London Ontario landscapers installed to match the plank pattern’s direction, a small design move that made the yard feel planned rather than patched together.
A client in Masonville paired a driveway refresh with the deck. The driveway had been resealed with a shiny acrylic that turned slick under frost. We switched to a penetrating silane-siloxane for the drive and a satin urethane with polymer grit for the deck. Side by side, you see the logic: different uses, different chemistry. The owners appreciated that the two spaces felt related without mirroring textures. Their concrete driveways London Ontario winters will test should hold up better now that salt use is down and water sheds correctly.
Thinking beyond the deck
Once you fix the deck, your eye starts to wander. The path to the garage probably deserves attention. Maybe the step to the lawn could be widened. Resurfacing can extend gracefully to those areas. For clients who want a cohesive look across several surfaces, we keep details consistent. If your deck uses a lightly broomed microtopping with a matte sealer, consider the same on the garden path, with a slightly heavier grit on the slope. Where budgets permit, add a single accent band at the front stoop to connect to the residential driveway London homeowners often consider upgrading a year later. Nudge, don’t shout.
If you need heavy excavation for drainage or frost-proofing, hydrovac helps protect utilities and tree roots. It’s not standard on deck projects, but I’ve pulled it in when we added a French drain near a sunken corner. That same hydrovac excavation portfolio on a contractor’s site tells you they can coordinate complex logistics. Not every job needs the big toys, but the know-how helps when surprises pop out of the ground.
When to walk away from overlays
Sometimes the right call is to save your money. If your slab has pushed up 25 millimetres at a control joint from frost heave, an overlay won’t fix the underlying soil issue. If you have chronic moisture wicking through from below, evidenced by efflorescence and a damp stripe at the foundation, coatings will struggle. Solve drainage first, then revisit finishes. If you want a mirror-gloss finish outdoors, understand it will be slick and show every scuff. Better to choose a satin sheen and keep yourself upright through February.
I also pass on jobs when the schedule is wrong. A late October start before a cold snap invites trouble. Better to do proper prep and pause than rush and regret. You don’t want a deck that looks great on Halloween and peels by March.
The payoff
A resurfaced concrete deck changes how you use your home. Morning coffee lands on the steps because they’re warm under the mat and not icy. Weekend dinners move outside because the space feels finished, not like a leftover from the builder. If you eventually list the house, the deck reads like a well-cared-for asset, not a project waiting for the next owner. Done right, overlays last 8 to 15 years in our climate with simple maintenance, about on par with the good side of stamped concrete and far better than paint-and-hope.
If you’re starting to gather ideas, look up local concrete experts with a mix of residential and light commercial work. Ask for photos of decorative concrete examples, not just catalog images. Spend a minute on maintenance talk. If a contractor can’t explain how to reseal, or what grit they prefer for icy days, keep interviewing.
London gives decks a workout. With good prep, smart material choices, and a finish that respects weather and use, your concrete deck can come back to life and stay that way. Whether you lean modern with a clean microtopping, favour texture with a spray-down finish, or want the character of a stamped overlay, there’s a path that fits your budget and your taste. If you’re ready to price it out, request concrete estimate options that show the tiers clearly. Seeing good, better, best on paper helps you choose with your eyes open. And if a contractor tries to sell you the moon without talking dust, profile, and cure, remember the first rule of concrete work in this city: prep is everything, winter is coming, and the deck will tell the truth next February.
NAP
Business Name: Ferrari Concrete
Address: 5606 Westdel Bourne, London, ON N6P 1P3, Canada
Plus Code: VM9J+GF London, Ontario, Canada
Phone: (519) 652-0483
Website: https://www.ferrariconcrete.com/
Email: [email protected]
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Ferrari Concrete is a family-owned concrete contractor serving London, Ontario with residential, commercial, and industrial concrete work.
Ferrari Concrete provides plain, coloured, stamped, and exposed aggregate concrete for driveways, patios, porches, pool decks, sidewalks, curbing, and garage floors.
Ferrari Concrete operates from 5606 Westdel Bourne, London, ON N6P 1P3, Canada (Plus Code: VM9J+GF) and can be reached at 519-652-0483 for project consultations.
Ferrari Concrete serves the London area and nearby communities such as Lambeth, St. Thomas, and Strathroy for concrete installations and upgrades.
Ferrari Concrete offers commercial concrete services for parking lots, curbs, sidewalks, driveways, and other site concrete needs for facilities and workplaces.
Ferrari Concrete includes decorative concrete options that can help homeowners match finishes and patterns to the look of their property.
Ferrari Concrete provides HydroVac services (Ferrari HydroVac) for projects where hydrovac excavation support may be a fit.
Ferrari Concrete can be found on Google Maps here: https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Ferrari%20Concrete%2C%205606%20Westdel%20Bourne%2C%20London%2C%20ON%20N6P%201P3
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Popular Questions About Ferrari Concrete
What services does Ferrari Concrete offer in London, Ontario?
Ferrari Concrete provides a range of concrete services, including residential and commercial concrete work such as driveways, patios, porches, pool decks, sidewalks, curbing, and garage floors, with finish options like plain, coloured, stamped, and exposed aggregate.
Does Ferrari Concrete install stamped or coloured concrete?
Yes—Ferrari Concrete offers decorative finishes such as stamped and coloured concrete. Availability can depend on scheduling, season, and the specific pattern/colour selection, so it’s best to confirm details during an estimate.
Do you handle both residential and commercial concrete projects?
Ferrari Concrete works on residential projects (like driveways and patios) as well as commercial/industrial concrete needs (such as curbs, sidewalks, and parking-area concrete). Project scope and site requirements typically determine the best approach.
What areas does Ferrari Concrete serve around London?
Ferrari Concrete serves London, ON and surrounding communities. If your project is outside the city core, it’s a good idea to confirm travel/service availability when requesting a quote.
How does pricing usually work for a concrete project?
Concrete project costs typically depend on size, site access, base preparation, thickness/reinforcement needs, drainage considerations, and finish choices (for example stamped vs. plain). An on-site assessment is usually the fastest way to get an accurate estimate.
What are Ferrari Concrete’s business hours?
Hours listed are Monday through Saturday from 8:00 am to 6:00 pm. Sunday hours are not listed, so it’s best to call ahead if you need a weekend appointment outside those times.
How do I contact Ferrari Concrete for an estimate?
Call (519) 652-0483 or email [email protected] to request an estimate. You can also connect on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Website: https://www.ferrariconcrete.com/
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